Day-trip Climbing in the Wind Rivers

It was still dark, and we were flying uphill. Daniel and I sat in a haze, eyes peeled, looking for Elk and Deer - the other two main users for Wyoming roads at this time of the morning.

We were tired and cold, but excited to climb a 700ft alpine rock climbing route, and hopefully make it back for dinner time with girlfriend and dogs.

Daniel passed me an open water bottle and took the mug of South Beach Diet shake that I had been slopping down; months ago I was "gifted" a bunch of SBD packets after an employer fell off the bandwagon, I occasionally try one out when time is of the essence.

30 minutes on paved road got us out of Lander, up through Sinks Canyon, and above the Switchbacks (~9000ft). 15 minutes more on gravel took us to the Worthen Meadow trail head, where we fumbled with shoes and layers, trying to keep as warm as possible until the moment we set off.

Then fast hiking, freezing breath in the headlamp, and loud laughter in the moonlight to raise our spirits and let potential bear or moose know that we are coming through. Daniel's phone immediately died in the cold, so we were map-less for the rest of the 5 mile hike in.

Mercifully, the sun rose, and our minds held the image and direction of our destination well. We were both disappointed in our lack of preparedness, but we were both confident that we could find our way.

After 3 hours of uphill bush-wacking past lakes and along drainages, we finally crested the last rocky rise to stare in awe at the wall before us. We picked our way through the last big talus field at the base of the Leg Lake cirque, constantly looking up, only to stumble and be reminded of our treading feet.

"Look for the big red buttress just right of a large couloir that splits the cirque. Climb to and through the perfect-looking dihedral, then continue on the prow to the summit." We found these landmarks easy enough, and at 10am sat down at the base to re-hydrate, refuel, and relax.

It was here that I let the pent up pre-climb nervous energy wash over me, and then wash away. My last alpine climb had been a bit over my head, so part of me was worried I was out of practice. I've always been good at over-coming self-doubt, and with the grand beauty of the climb staring down at us, it was easy to forget fear and let excitement rule!

At 1030 we dawned climbing gear, filled a small pack of provisions (water, food, layers, and a headlamp we wouldn't need unless something went wrong), and began upwards!

I lead off through large loose blocks of granite held together by gravity, friction, and grass. After ~150ft of pathfinding/climbing I built an anchor in the most stable looking spot and brought daniel up.

Daniel wandered a bit further up to the base of the dihedral, then brought me up, and proceeded to lead the Money Pitch: a beautiful 100ft crack in a corner. Following after Daniel, I marveled at the security of the hand-jams and cam-placements throughout the perfect splitter granite.

We took the prow to the summit, swapping leads on a broken vertical ridge, with Leg Lake and a sea of gorgeous red rock below us. There on the blustery summit (~12,000ft) we congratulated one another, drank the last water, and quickly packed for the descent.

It's always a relief, tinted by bitter-sweet: the summit. We did what we came to do, "Hurray!"...and now we just have to get home safe. Of course, much beauty awaits you in the setting sun, and if you enjoy the puzzle of rock-hopping, you won't be bored...

An hour later, after a tenuous descent down a steep boulder-strewn gulley, we were back at our packs, looking up at where we had come. More snacking and contented musings ensued before the 5mile hike back out to the trailhead became undeniable.